Preheat the oven to 180C/160 Fan/Gas 4.

Lay each garlic bulb in the centre of a 10x10cm/4x4in square piece of kitchen foil and drizzle 1 tablespoon of oil over the bulbs. Season with salt, then wrap the garlic bulbs up in the foil to seal. Place the foil-wrapped garlic in a small roasting dish and roast for 45–50 minutes, until the garlic is caramelised and completely soft. Unwrap the garlic and allow to cool completely.

Meanwhile, heat the remaining 3 tablespoons of oil and butter in a large, deep frying pan over a medium heat and, when melted, add the chilli flakes and lemon zest. Turn the heat off and allow the oil to infuse while the garlic cools, about 10 minutes.

When cool enough to handle, squeeze the garlic cloves out of the bulbs onto a plate and use a fork to mash the cloves until smooth. Add the mashed garlic cloves to the frying pan with the chilli and lemon mixture and return to a medium-low heat. Use a flat whisk or fork to break up the garlic into the flavoured oil mixture. Pour in the wine, cream, lemon juice and a pinch of salt and continue to whisk while it comes to a very gentle simmer.

Simmer gently for 5 minutes, then scatter over the Parmesan and continue to cook, without stirring, for one minute more. Whisk to combine, then taste for seasoning.

Transfer to a jar or airtight container and store in the fridge for up to 5 days before using.