Start by making the tomato sauce because it needs time to develop flavor. Add olive oil to a large pot over medium heat. Once hot, add the onion and gently sauté until soft. Add the garlic and cook another minute. Pour in the cans of whole tomatoes. Sprinkle the oregano, sugar and bay leaves, and stir to mix. Reduce the heat to medium-low and allow it to simmer for at least an hour. Stir it every 15 minutes. As it cooks, the tomatoes will soften, allowing you to mash and break it up with a fork or potato masher.

While the tomato sauce is simmering, start to make the meatballs. Place the ground meat in a large bowl. Soak the bread crumbs in the milk for five minutes. Whisk the eggs, parmesan, garlic and parsley together in a separate bowl. Add all of the spices to the mixture (fennel, oregano, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper flakes) and stir until combined. Pour the mixture over the ground meat and add the soaked breadcrumbs. Use a large spatula to fold it in. Continue to mix until it is well blended and forms a big tacky ball. Roll into golf ball sizes and set aside on a sheet tray. This recipe makes about 18 to 20 meatballs.

Place the tray with meatball in the fridge to rest for 30 to 60 minutes. This allows the meat to soak up the liquids and gives more time for the tomato sauce to reduce. While the meatballs are resting, fill a large stockpot with water and bring to boil for pasta.

Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add a glug of oil and, once hot, lay each meatball into the pan. Don’t overcrowd. Work in batches if needed. After one side is brown, flip and brown the other side. Transfer each meatball to the pot of tomato sauce. Don’t worry if they are undercooked in the middle. They will continue to cook in the simmering sauce.

Spoon the canned tomato paste to the hot sauté pan. Fill the can up with red wine and pour into the pan to deglaze. Stir together and let the red wine boil down. After a minute, or when the liquid has nearly evaporated, turn the heat off and scrape the mixture into the pot of tomato sauce and meatballs. Carefully stir to incorporate. Let this gently simmer and cook for another 30 minutes or more.

The pot of water should be boiling by now. Pour in a generous amount of kosher salt to season. Add the dried pasta and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or according to instructions. Remove to a colander and shock with cold water.

To serve, pour tomato sauce and meatballs over the pasta. Grate fresh parmesan and sprinkle with basil if desired.